Arthur's Pass village, 23rd December

This village lies in the heart of the southern Alps and has great walking (tramping as they call it here).

Yesterday I climbed Avalanche Peak, said to be the best one day tramp in the South Island. Nice walk in beautiful weather with snow capped mountains all around. Starting at 730m I followed Scott's Track to the summit at 1833m and back the same way. 5 hrs 25 mins for a walk scheduled as 6-8 hours (but that is for worst conditions). There was a little snow at the top and the short summit ridge had razor sharp rocks and was quite narrow, but there were no problems. It can be walked as a circular tramp but I was advised that there were avalanche risks on one track, so I went up and back the same way. In the event I didn't think there was enough snow for an avalanche.

Today I went part of the way on a 2-3 day tramp called the Cass Saddle-Lagoon Saddle Tramp. I started at the reverse end from Bewley Hut to Lagoon Shelter and back. It wasn't so high but there was a lot of up and down through forest and tufted grass/mud, so I was quite tired when I got back. Time was 5hrs 5mins-scheduled time 4-6hours. Didn't see a soul all day! Again the weather was great with lovely panoramic mountain views. There aren't so many day walks per se here so you have really to link in with the longer tramps.

Arthur's Pass village is quite cute in many ways. Arthur's Pass Store is the mecca of the village selling provisions, lots of pies and sausage rolls etc for walkers; and great coffee-I recommend their large flat white coffee, it's the best. The other main 'centre' across the road is a restaurant called the Wobbly Kea, where I've eaten every night. Food is hearty and substantial.

Misc Blogettes

1. The Kea is an endangered species of parrot, which unfortunately has been spoiled by people giving them food, so they hang around the street looking for scraps. Confirmed by a couple I met in the restaurant, they rip the rubber from car windscreens, and I saw one trying to get water from a drinking fountain. My description of them is skulking, sly (one sat behind me while I was sitting at the top of Avalanche Peak waiting to pounce on food) and very smart. Their colour isn't attractive-dark green going on soot. I must say the woman fron the DOC office wasn't happy when I told her that I didn't like them!

2. Outside the towns most bridges in New Zealand appear to be single track. But in an era of global warming, the country has either been very far thinking or just lucky. But when traffic is so light they are not an impediment to traffic flows!

2. By contrast with the limited investment in the transport infrastructure, investment in the tourism infrastructure is very impressive. Signposting at the trail heads and signage on the routes is absolutely terrific. For someone like myself with no sense of direction, this is perfect! I signed in to the Department of Conservation office as advised before going up Avalanche Peak.