Travels in Central America, 12-28 November 2010

Hello folks,

This is my first post since New Zealand & Australia at the start of 2010, and my first overseas trip except for work-related visits to Switzerland and Ireland. Unlike the Australasian travels, I am going to Central America as part of a group cycling holiday with the travel company Exodus.

It's my 5th overseas trip with Exodus, others being to Mali (Timbuctou, trekking etc, 2005); two to Morocco (ascent of Mount Toubkal, and Atlas Descent mountain biking, both 2007); and the Pyrenees (Pyrenees Single Track mountain biking, 2008).

The other travel company I have been on international walking holidays with is Ramblers Holidays to 6 locations (Mallorca, 1998; Las Alpujarras, Spain, 1999; Francavilla, Sicily, 1999/2000 millennium; Ligurian Alps, 2001; Andalucia, Spain, 2002; and Madeira, 2005/06 Xmas/New Year). Despite it's rather unfortunate brand name - when I first went with this company, my son commented 'when I think of Ramblers, I think of old guys like you with Rohan trousers'! - I've had some good walking and usually nice company.

As these are UK-based companies, most of the people are British, especially with Ramblers, where the age profile is older too. The Exodus mountain biking holidays in particular attract largely the 30-somethings age group. As with all these activity holidays, you can choose the grade you wish, although as I've found the grades are not always consistent! This can have interesting consequences as with my Pyrenees mountain biking where I went over the handlebars on the first morning, and then came off again when I skidded on some stream water on the same afternoon! Decidedly bloodied, but mostly unbowed, I got better! I still went over the handlebars a second time later in the week, and I was at the limit of my mountain biking 'expertise', but I enjoyed it a lot.

Anyhow in anticipation of going cycling in Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Panama, I thought it might be interesting to provide a few observations on the pros and cons of group holidays in case any readers are thinking of signing up. So here goes...obviously group holiday are are less flexible; some group leaders may permit people to do their own thing at particular times (such as going up a mountain which is outside the holiday grade - at one's own risk of course), but this is not the norm. For many people the fact of having no responsibility is a major plus point for group holidays, and basically it depends what one wants. Independent travelling has its limitations when there are language barriers or safety problems exist; and in some instances governments may not permit solo hiking as with the Inca Trail trek in Peru or where it's physically hardly possible to travel alone (the Manu Biosphere Reserve in the Amazon region falls into that category)

Outside these obvious points, there are a number of factors which determine the degree of enjoyment in group holidays (the actual holiday locations and activities have all been great, at least matching my expectations so I won't say any more about these issues):

• Organization and logistics: All good. Flights and transportation were efficiently organized with people being met at the airport by the group leaders. The Ramblers trips were hotel based (2 star- ish) in one location, with day hill walking (except Madeira which had two centres over a 14 day period, the others being typically 8 days in length). The Pyrenees mountain biking with Exodus was based in a chalet; otherwise these Exodus trips involved trekking in whole or part (with camping / hutting on occasions) or mountain biking in the Anti-Atlas region where we stayed in hotels. I always have a single room in the small hotels even though the additional cost can be quite high.
• Group leader: The leader clearly plays a major part in the success of the trips. Mostly these were Brits, except in the case of Mali and Mount Toubkal where the leaders were locals, and the Pyrenees, where there is a French requirement to have a local as well as a British guide. There were one or two slight difficulties with Ramblers who may have trained volunteers as leaders, who weren't always so fluent in the local language or didn't really know the routes very well. In fairness I would say that some routes in Mallorca had been blocked off by land owners, associated with the big growth in German holiday home ownership. The best leaders were those who were efficient and friendly, but not over-friendly (I can think of one who seemed to be more interested in the women in the party than in guiding!). It's not an easy job though, given the personalities of the group members!
• Group profile: I talked a bit about the group age and nationality profiles above. From my perspective as a single and 'older' person, other factors influencing the success of trips were the mix of single/married people (sometimes the latter tend to stick together somewhat); age range didn't bother me despite being the oldest by far on the mountain biking trips; and nationality mix. I would say I prefer a range of nationalities since it makes for more interesting discussions. On Ramblers holidays, all-British groups wasn't an issue on the short trips, where conversation revolves around who has been where, when and associated anecdotes. But anything longer than a week or so means that conversations begin to get into potentially contentious topics. I have to confess my problem with the 'Middle Englanders' (they may not be English-they could be Scottish or Welsh!) and their illiberal / socially conservative views on immigration, gay rights, hanging and so on, and readership of you know what newspaper(s). So there are conversation topics to avoid, let's say.

In my New Zealand blog, I mentioned my favourite locations and I'll do the same for my group trips, although I'm loathe to rank them since they were very different:

1. Atlas Descent-my first mountain biking with superb mountain scenery, and landscapes shimmering in the midday heat; pretty (albeit poor) little villages with bleating, bell-jangling goat herds. And we had a really great leader - Liz Proctor. It was graded higher than the Pyrenees trip but I think Liz altered routes to match group skills. The finale was amazing: a long downhill ride to the ocean.
2. Francavilla, Sicily. This village resides above Beautiful Taormina with rugged landscapes and hill walking that included a partial climb of Mount Etna (we were forced back because of deep snow and volcanic activity). It was almost bound to be a hit because of the millennium. The group was great and we had a lot of fun. On New Year's Day there was a sinister atmosphere pervading the town centre - fires burning, gnarled old Sicilian men in dark shabby suits, grey day...Welcome to the new millennium.
3. Mali (Timbuctou and the Dogons): I've been fascinated by Timbuctou since I was a child and always wanted to go there as it seemed so remote and romantic. I went with my friends Richard and Susan Shaw and Sue's friend Alex. The route went via the capital Bamako and along the River Niger, with some trekking and camping in the Dogons and thence on to Timbuctou by mini bus. Timbuctou, once a major centre for Islamic learning, is now being taken over by sand, as desertification sweeps inexorably southwards. It may not exist 50 years from now. The main street was 25-30 cms deep in sand, there was sand in the hot, humid wind, and sand in our bread rolls. The Tuareg looked menacing and hostile (and still have women slaves). I was pretty sick (like Richard too) and still I loved it.
4. Now that I've identified the above three, I feel I shouldn't have done this. It means I've omitted the Ligurian Alps where we stayed in a quaint rustic village. The group was great and danced a lot, and we had stimulating conversations and ate homely Italian food.

In truth I've enjoyed everywhere. Just be positive and adaptive, and don't get involved in petty issues like how much the group should tip etc. And now to Central America!